AHK (H-Ala-His-Lys-OH/Tripeptide-3)

1、 Product basic file

Chinese name: AHK/Tripeptide-3/Propionine Histoyl Lysine

English name: AHK/Tripeptide-3/H-Ala-His-Lys-OH/L-Alanyl-L-histyl-L-lysine

CAS number: 126828-32-8

Molecular formula: C ₁₅ H ₂₆ N ₆ O ₄

Molecular weight: 354.4 g/mol

Amino acid sequence: Ala His Lys (alanine histidine lysine)

Single letter abbreviation: AHK

Appearance: White or off white powder

Solubility: Highly soluble in water and PBS buffer solution; Good water solubility, recommended concentration 1-20mg/ml

Isoelectric point (pI): ≈ 9.8 (strongly alkaline)

Purity: ≥ 95%~98% (HPLC)

Storage conditions:

Freeze dried powder state: Freeze dried at -20 ℃, stored away from light, with a shelf life of up to 3 years

Water solution state: After packaging, freeze and store at -80 ℃ to avoid repeated freeze-thaw cycles. It is recommended to use within 6 months

Working fluid: Store at 4 ℃ in the dark and use within one week. The pH should be controlled between 5.5-6.5

2、 Structural features

AHK is a linear tripeptide composed of three L-type amino acids, with the following molecular structure characteristics:

Histidine (His) residue: The imidazole ring structure endows the molecule with excellent metal chelating ability and can form stable complexes (i.e. AHK Cu) with copper ions (Cu ² ⁺), which is the core structural advantage of AHK

Lysine (Lys) residue: The ε - amino group provides the basic site of the molecule, endowing it with high water solubility and high transdermal/membrane permeability

Alanine (Ala) residue: The methyl side chain increases the lipophilicity of the molecule and improves skin permeability

Small molecular weight (354.4 Da), no disulfide bonds, stable structure, easy synthesis, and easy absorption

3、 Core efficacy and mechanism of action

AHK is a human homologous biomimetic tripeptide, belonging to the signal peptide+metal binding peptide, with multiple biological functions. Its efficacy can be developed from the following five dimensions:

Promote hair growth (core efficacy)

Activate hair follicle dermal papilla cells (DPC) and stimulate their proliferation

Extend the Anagen phase of hair follicles and shorten the resting phase

Promote hair follicle angiogenesis (upregulate VEGF expression), increase blood flow and nutrient supply around hair follicles

Inhibiting DHT (dihydrotestosterone) damage to hair follicles and combating androgenic alopecia (AGA)

Extremely low concentrations in vitro can stimulate human hair follicle elongation

Skin repair and anti-aging

Activation of TGF - β signaling pathway promotes type I collagen synthesis. Clinical trials have shown a 28% increase in skin elasticity after 8 weeks of use

Promote fibroblast proliferation, accelerate collagen and elastin synthesis

Inhibit collagen carboxylation process and maintain skin firmness

Upregulation of silk fibroin expression, enhancement of stratum corneum hydration ability, improvement of skin roughness, and reduction of transcutaneous water loss (TEWL)

antioxidant

Neutralize free radicals (such as ultraviolet radiation and reactive oxygen species generated by pollution), reduce oxidative stress damage to skin cells

Protect DNA, proteins, and lipids from oxidative damage

Delaying skin aging, reducing wrinkles, pigmentation, and sagging

Promoting angiogenesis and improving microcirculation

Promote endothelial cell migration and tubular structure formation

Enhance local tissue blood and oxygen supply

Beneficial for wound repair, hair follicle nutrition, and tissue regeneration

Organizational protection and anti apoptosis

Reduce cell apoptosis caused by oxidative stress

Protect hair follicles, skin cells, and endothelial cells

Simulate the function of mitochondrial active peptides, activate AMPK, increase ATP synthesis efficiency by 40%, and enhance energy supply to aging cells

4、 The relationship between AHK and AHK Cu (important)

⚠️  Key tip: AHK is a precursor of AHK Cu, which is a potent active form of AHK. AHK Cu (copper complex form) is mostly directly used in cosmetics and hair development products to obtain stronger biological activity. AHK free peptide has relatively weak activity when used alone, but its advantage lies in higher formulation flexibility - it can chelate with copper ions or other metal ions as needed in the formulation, making it suitable for special formulation systems that require precise control of copper ion concentration.

5、 Recommended addition ratio and application scenarios

Anti hair loss and hair growth products (core application): It is recommended to add 0.1% -5%. As the core active ingredient of hair growth essence, scalp care solution and anti stripping spray, it directly acts on scalp hair follicles. If used after pre chelation with copper ions (i.e. converted into AHK Cu form), the hair growth effect is better.

Anti aging skincare products: recommended dosage is 0.1% -2%. It can be used in essence, face cream, eye cream, etc. It can promote collagen synthesis and antioxidant properties to improve fine lines, relaxation and dullness.

Medical art post repair products: It is recommended to add 0.5% -3%. Can accelerate epidermal regeneration process by more than twice, suitable for postoperative repair such as laser and microneedle.

Wound healing/scar lightening products: It is recommended to add 1% -5%. Utilize its ability to promote angiogenesis and tissue remodeling to accelerate wound repair.

6、 Formula recommendations and safety compliance

Gold synergy combination:

AHK+copper ion (Cu ² ⁺): chelated in situ into AHK Cu in the formula, significantly enhancing its biological activity

AHK+hyaluronic acid: enhances moisturizing and filling effects, improves skin texture

AHK+caffeine: synergistically promote hair follicle microcirculation and enhance hair growth effect

Compatibility taboos:

Avoid direct mixing with strong oxidants

Avoid using in environments with low pH values (<4.0) as it may lead to peptide chain degradation

If you do not want copper ions to participate in the reaction, it is necessary to avoid compatibility with copper containing raw materials (such as GHK Cu), as metal chelation can lead to loss of activity

Safety compliance: It has been included in the "Catalogue of Used Cosmetics Raw Materials", and it is recommended to add 0.1% -5% in cosmetics. Long term use has a more significant effect, and it is recommended to conduct a local skin test before using on sensitive skin.

7、 Application areas and brand usage display

AHK and its copper complex AHK Cu are mainly used in the following fields:

Anti hair loss and hair growth products: hair growth essence, scalp care solution, anti hair loss spray, hair care shampoo, etc. (core application fields)

Anti aging skin care products: essence liquid, face cream, eye cream, etc

Post repair of medical art: repair facial mask, repair essence, etc

Eyelash/eyebrow growth products: eyelash growth liquid, eyebrow essence, etc

Wound healing/scar lightening products: repair cream, scar lightening gel, etc

Brand usage case:

PeptideLabz (USA): Copper Peptide Hair Growth Treatment Serum, containing 10% GHK Cu+5% AHK Cu, with a rating of 3.7 on Amazon (101 reviews). User feedback shows that after using it for 2 months, hair thickness and density have significantly increased

MELAO (China): OEM GHK Cu&AHK Cu Hair Growth essence spray, providing self owned brand OEM services to the global market

A large number of Chinese factories on Alibaba's platform provide AHK and AHK Cu raw material supply and finished product OEM services, covering a variety of dosage forms such as hair essence, scalp care oil, anti stripping spray, etc., for global DTC brands and cross-border e-commerce sellers

8、 Related literature

Zhang Y, et al.Tripeptide-3 enhances mitochondrial function and collagen synthesis in aged human fibroblasts. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 May; 22(5):1890-1899.

Li X, et al.AHK-Cu promotes hair growth by activating dermal papilla cell proliferation. Int J Mol Sci. 2022 Dec; 23(23):14967.

Chen L, et al.Formulation optimization of Tripeptide-3 for enhanced skin penetration and stability. Int J Pharm. 2021 Sep; 604:120785.

Kim K. H. et al.The effect of tripeptide-copper complex on human hair growth in vitro. Archives of Pharmacal Research. 2007; 30(7):834-839.

Summary: AHK (tripeptide-3) is a free precursor of AHK Cu in the copper peptide family, which has multiple functions such as antioxidant, collagen synthesis promotion, and hair growth promotion. However, in practical applications, the biological activity of AHK Cu (copper complex form) is much higher than that of free AHK, so AHK Cu is more commonly used directly in cosmetics and hair development products. AHK free peptides are more suitable for special formulation scenarios that require precise control of metal ion concentration, or as raw material precursors for AHK Cu.