Acetyldipeptide-1 cetearyl ester

1、 Product basic file

Chinese name: Acetyldipeptide-1 cetearyl ester (also known as neuropeptide)

English name: Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

CAS number: 196604-48-5

Molecular formula: C ∝③ H ₅₇ N ₅ O ₅

Molecular weight: 603.84 g/mol

Amino acid sequence: N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hxadecyl Ester, abbreviated as NATAH

Amino acid composition: Composed of two types of amino acids, tyrosine (Tyr) and arginine (Arg), with acetylation modification at the N-terminus and cetamol esterification modification at the C-terminus

Appearance specifications: Clear and transparent liquid, odorless; Peptide content is about 3000 ppm

Solubility: Difficult to dissolve in water, requiring the addition of polyethylene glycol structural solubilizers or polyols for solubilization assistance

Storage conditions: Sealed and protected from light, stored at room temperature

2、 Core efficacy and mechanism of action

Acetyl dipeptide-1 (Tyr Arg) is an active lipopeptide developed by Sederma, a French company. It was inspired by research conducted by Kyoto University in the 1980s, which found that dipeptide-1 (Tyr Arg) can stimulate the skin to release endorphins, a natural endogenous opioid peptide with analgesic and soothing effects. Its core efficacy and mechanism of action are mainly reflected in the following dimensions:

Soothing and anti-inflammatory, reducing skin sensitivity (core efficacy): By stimulating skin nerve cells to release met enkephalin, an effective delta opioid receptor agonist, it produces opioid like analgesic and soothing effects. Simultaneously inhibiting the release of inflammatory factors (TNF - α, IL-6, IL-1 β) and neuropeptides (CGRP, substance P), suppressing microvascular dilation and plasma extravasation, and rapidly relieving sensitive reactions such as skin redness, burning, and stinging. Clinical tests have shown that the burning sensation caused by capsaicin can be relieved within 1 minute.

Anti aging and firming, anti skin laxity: In vitro experiments have shown that acetyldipeptide-1 cetearyl ester can significantly promote the synthesis of elastin and collagen (COL-I, COL-III), and the deposition of elastin/proelastin in the extracellular matrix can be increased by more than 90% (up to 94%). Simultaneously intervene in various stages of elastic tissue formation and maturation, including the expression of key proteins such as Fibrolin-1, Fibrolin-5, and lysyl oxidase. In the clinical test, after two months of using the cream containing 4% of this ingredient, 80% of the subjects' skin was significantly tight, and the visible effect of gravity on the skin was significantly reduced.

Relaxing muscles and preventing wrinkles: By regulating neurotransmitters that stimulate muscle activity, facial muscles are relaxed, preventing the appearance of first wrinkles, improving the depth and length of fine lines, and smoothing out dynamic and static lines.

Antioxidant and anti glycation: protects fibroblasts from glycation effects (during glycation, destructive sugar molecules gradually weaken connective tissue cells). It can clear free radicals (such as PTIO, ROS) and inhibit the generation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). In addition, it can regulate the release of damaged proteins induced by ultraviolet radiation, activate autophagy, and exert anti-aging effects.

Barrier repair and moisturization: Upregulation of epidermal barrier related genes (such as silk fibroin and keratin) enhances skin water retention ability. The lipid structure of its whale wax ester can reduce water evaporation and maintain skin softness and radiance.

3、 Recommended addition ratio and application scenarios

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester formula has good compatibility, and can be added to face cream, lotion, essence, eye cream, facial mask and other formulations.

Recommended addition ratio: The recommended concentration of the product solution is 3% to 4% (based on Idealift) ™ Commodity solution meter); The range of pure peptide activity concentration is 0.02% to 0.8%. In clinical trials, a 4% concentration can show efficacy after one month of use.

Sensitive muscle soothing and repairing product: As a core soothing ingredient, it quickly relieves discomfort in seasonal sensitivity, post beauty repair, stinging caused by mask friction, and redness caused by emotional stress.

Anti aging and firming face cream/essence: use its ability to promote elastin synthesis and fight against skin relaxation, focusing on the concept of "improving firmness and fighting against gravity", especially suitable for mature skin over 50 years old.

Eye care products: apply to eye cream, eye essence, etc., use its ability to relax muscles, fade fine lines, and improve dynamic and static lines around the eyes.

Neck care products: applied to neck tightening cream, etc., to combat sagging and wrinkles of the neck skin.

4、 Formula recommendations and safety compliance

Gold synergy combination:

Compound with ceramide: first stabilize and then repair the wall, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetearyl ester is responsible for immediate relief, ceramide is responsible for long-term barrier repair, both internally and externally.

Compound with centella asiatica glycoside: a combination of Chinese and Western repair methods, synergistically enhancing the soothing and anti-inflammatory effects.

Compound with bisabolol: enhances soothing effect, suitable for highly sensitive skin.

It is compounded with hexapeptide PRO (acetylhexapeptide -8 upgraded version): to build a dual path anti-aging system of "soothing+anti wrinkle", which is used by Youshi Beauty&Black Gravity essence.

Compatibility and process suggestions: This ingredient is difficult to dissolve in water, and when used, polyethylene glycol structural solubilizers or polyols need to be added for solubilization assistance. It is recommended to add it in the post formulation stage under low temperature conditions (≤ 40 ℃), with a pH range of 5-8, to preserve its biological activity to the greatest extent possible.

Safety compliance: Acetyldipeptide-1 cetearyl ester has been included in China's "Catalogue of Used Cosmetics Raw Materials" (IECIC) in 2021, meeting the requirements of domestic cosmetics regulation. High safety, minimal side effects, limited to external use only.

5、 Application Fields and Market Supply

Acetyldipeptide-1 cetearyl ester, as a multifunctional active peptide with both soothing and anti-aging effects, is widely used in the high-end skincare market.