Acetyl tetrapeptide-5

1、 Product basic file

English name: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Nicknames: Eye silk peptide, Liyan peptide Depuffin、 Active peptide for removing eye bags

INCI Name: ACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-5

CAS number: 820959-17-9

Molecular formula: C ₂₀ H ₂₈ N ₈ O ₇

Molecular weight: 492.49 g/mol

Amino acid sequence: Ac - β - Ala-His-Ser-His-OH (N-acetyl - β - alanyl-L-histidyl-L-serinyl-L-histidine)

Appearance: White to off white crystalline powder (freeze-dried powder)

Purity: ≥ 95%~99% (HPLC)

Solubility: Water soluble, with a solubility of ≥ 10 mg/mL in PBS (pH 7.2)

Density: 1.4 ± 0.1 g/cm ³ (calculated value)

LogP: -3.79 (Strong hydrophilicity)

PKa: 2.76 ± 0.10 (calculated value)

Boiling point: 1237.3 ± 65.0 ℃ (predicted value)

Flash point: 702.1 ± 34.3 ℃

Vapor pressure: 0.0 ± 0.3 mmHg (25 ℃)

Refractive index: 1.611

INCI functional classification: Humectant

Storage conditions: sealed and protected from light at 2-8 ℃; The powder state can be stable for a long time. After preparing the solution, it is recommended to store it at low temperature and avoid repeated freezing and thawing

2、 Core efficacy and mechanism of action

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 is a synthetic tetrapeptide designed specifically for eye care, with core efficacy centered around the dual pathway of "anti edema+anti glycation". As age increases, the skin gradually loses elasticity, microcirculation around the eyes weakens, and collagen glycation cross-linking leads to tissue hardening, collectively causing eye bags, swelling, and dark circles around the eyes. Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 improves the ocular status from two dimensions: vascular permeability and tissue structure, by inhibiting ACE-1 (angiotensin-converting enzyme 1) activity and collagen glycation reaction.

Its core efficacy and mechanism of action are mainly reflected in the following dimensions:

Inhibition of ACE-1 activity and improvement of ocular microcirculation (core efficacy): In vitro experiments have shown that acetyltetrapeptide-5 (100 μ g/mL) can effectively inhibit the activity of angiotensin-converting enzyme-1 (ACE-1), reduce the generation of angiotensin II, alleviate vascular pressure, decrease capillary permeability, reduce tissue fluid leakage, and effectively improve ocular edema and bags edema caused by fluid accumulation. Simultaneously improve local microcirculation around the eyes, promote lymphatic reflux, and accelerate the elimination of metabolic waste.

Inhibiting collagen glycation and maintaining skin elasticity: Glycation cross-linking of collagen is one of the important reasons for the loss of skin elasticity and the formation of eye bags. Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 can inhibit glycosylation reactions, prevent abnormal cross-linking between collagen molecules, maintain the normal structure and elasticity of collagen fibers in the dermis, thereby improving skin laxity and wrinkles around the eyes and delaying the formation of eye bags.

Eliminating edema and reducing eye bags: Through the dual mechanism of improving vascular osmotic pressure and microcirculation mentioned above, acetyltetrapeptide-5 can effectively reduce excessive accumulation of water in the eyelid area (i.e. eyelid edema), prevent fluid accumulation in the eye bag area, and achieve significant eye bag removal effect.

Diminishing dark circles: Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 improves blood circulation around the eyes, reduces vascular dark circles caused by blood stasis, and has a certain light brightening effect, which can reduce dullness around the eyes.

Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory: Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 can clear free radicals (ROS) and alleviate oxidative stress damage to the skin; At the same time, it can inhibit the release of inflammatory factors such as TNF - α and IL-6, and alleviate sensitivity and redness around the eyes.

Moisturizing and Water Locking: As a moisturizer, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 has good hygroscopicity and can help retain deep moisture in the stratum corneum, improving dryness and fine lines.

Clinical validation data:

In an in vivo study conducted by Lubrizol, 20 volunteers used an eye cream containing 10% Eyeseryl solution (equivalent to approximately 0.01% pure peptide). After 15 days of use, 70% of the subjects showed improvement in eye bags, and after 60 days, 95% of the subjects showed improvement in eye bags

After using eye cream containing acetyltetrapeptide-5 for 28 days, the average volume of eye bags in the subjects decreased by about 29.7%, and most users observed improvement in swelling within 15 days

Lubrizol officially claims that the appearance of eye bags and dark circles has significantly decreased since 14 days of use

Clinical data shows that the use of eye cream containing acetyltetrapeptide-5 can increase skin elasticity by about 30%

3、 Recommended addition ratio and application scenarios

Acetyltetrapeptide-5 is a water-soluble polypeptide with good compatibility, which can be added to eye cream, eye essence, eye gel, face cream and other skin care formulations.

Recommended addition ratio:

Pure peptide powder: recommended addition amount of 0.01%, maximum not exceeding 0.1% (calculated as pure peptide)

Commercialized solution (Eyeseryl) ®  Peptide Solution G: Lubrizol is recommended to be added at a dosage of 1% to 10% (based on the commercial solution). The solution consists of glycerol, water, and acetyl tetrapeptide-5, with a natural source content of 99.96% (ISO 16128 standard)

Common concentrations in actual formulas: pure peptide is about 0.01% to 0.05% (for example, adding a 0.50% product solution to a certain brand of eye cream is equivalent to about 0.005% pure peptide)

Eye Bag/Edema Relief Eye Cream: As the core active ingredient, it utilizes its ability to inhibit ACE-1 activity and improve microcirculation to create professional eye care products for edematous eye bags and morning swelling.

Fade dark circles eye essence: use it to improve the blood circulation around the eyes and brighten the skin color, and apply it to the care products of vascular dark circles.

Anti aging eye care: Utilizing its function of inhibiting collagen glycation and maintaining skin elasticity, it is applied to anti wrinkle and firming products around the eyes to prevent sagging and wrinkles caused by glycation.

Men's Eye Care: Lubrizol officially states that this product is suitable for eye care for both men and women.

Facial comprehensive care: In addition to eye care, it can also be used in other facial care products that require swelling reduction, firming, and moisturizing.

4、 Formula recommendations and safety compliance

Gold synergy combination:

Compound with caffeine: Caffeine promotes microcirculation and fat metabolism, while acetyltetrapeptide-5 inhibits ACE-1 and improves vascular permeability. The two synergistically eliminate periocular edema and eye bags from different targets.

Compound with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (botulinum toxin like peptide): Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 inhibits neurotransmitter release and reduces dynamic wrinkles, while Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 eliminates edema and anti glycation, forming a synergistic scheme of "light wrinkles+swelling reduction".

Combined with palmitoyl tripeptide-1: palmitoyl tripeptide-1 promotes collagen synthesis, while acetyl tetrapeptide-5 inhibits collagen glycation and degradation, forming a synergistic collagen protection scheme of "promoting synthesis+preventing degradation".

Compound with Niacinamide: Niacinamide is responsible for brightening and pigment management, while Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is responsible for reducing swelling and improving circulation. The two work together to improve dark circles.

Compound with hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic acid provides instant moisturizing and filling, while acetyltetrapeptide-5 improves eye bags from the vascular and tissue levels, both internally and externally.

Compatibility and process suggestions: Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 is a water-soluble peptide, and it is recommended to add it at a low temperature (<40 ℃) in the later stage of the formula to maximize its biological activity. It is recommended to refer to the supplier's technical document (Lubrizol) for the pH range.

Safety compliance: Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 is a pure synthetic tetrapeptide, non animal derived, with high safety and minimal side effects. The Cosmetics Database recognizes that it generally poses no harm to health and the environment. It has been included in China's "Catalogue of Used Cosmetics Raw Materials" (IECIC) and meets the requirements of domestic cosmetics regulation. Lubrizol is officially labeled as compliant with Chinese NMPA (formerly CFDA) regulations.

5、 Application Fields and Market Supply

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5, as a classic "eye bag removing peptide", has a wide range of applications and a mature supply chain in the eye care market.

Research and development background: Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 was developed by Lipotec (later acquired by Lubrizol) and marketed as Eyeseryl ® Promote the product name to the market. Its design inspiration comes from in-depth research on the mechanisms of eye swelling and eye bag formation - collagen cross-linking and hardening caused by AGEs (advanced glycation end products), and tissue fluid accumulation caused by microcirculation disorders around the eyes, which are the two core factors in eye bag formation. Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 achieves dual effects of "anti edema+anti glycation" by simultaneously targeting these two mechanisms.

Benchmark product application: Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 has been widely used in eye care products by many international brands, including Arcona Peptide Eye Serum、PCA Skin Sheer Tint Eye Triple Complex、MUKTI Age Defiance Eye Serum Wait. Domestic brands such as Rui Bo Xi Diamond Eye Cream will also introduce Eyeseryl ® As a core component for improving circulation.

Market prospects: Eye care is one of the fastest-growing segments in the skincare market, and consumers' demand for "scientific eye bag removal" continues to be strong. Acetyltetrapeptide-5, with its clear target mechanism (ACE-1 inhibition+anti saccharification) and abundant clinical data support, occupies a stable application position in eye cream, eye essence, eye gel and other products, and is one of the indispensable classical polypeptide raw materials in eye care formula.